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The Industry In Milan | The Recap
FENDI SS24
Models: HeJia Li, Angelina Kendall, Vctoria Fawole and QianXia
Designer: Kim Jones, Fashion Editor/Stylists: Ellie Grace Cumming, Melanie Ward, Hair Stylist: Guido Palau, Makeup Artist: Peter Philips, Casting Director: Shelley Durkan
Fendi is a brand that continues to brim with anticipation. As a new collection unfurls each season, there is a hushed expectancy surrounding the narrative Kim Jones will weave. For this particular season, Jones took inspiration from the timeless avenues of Rome, where an understated elegance exists—a celebration of personal freedom and self-expression. This emotive yet thoughtful avenue of inspiration took Jones through the conduits of the Roman essence. With an intuitive eye, he crafted this narrative for women who dress for themselves, channeling the essence he sees in Silvia and Delfna daily. In the collection, the ordinary is transformed, histories intertwine, and a distinctly Roman insouciance is evoked, setting Jones on a sartorial expedition that blurs the lines between everyday wear and the pinnacle of luxury – a true embodiment of the art of effortless dressing while also embracing imperfections as a reflection of human authenticity and the quiet confidence that comes from authentic self-expression.
The Impression
ETRO SS24
Models: HeJia Li, Ajok Daing, Victoria Fawole Designer: Marco de Vincenzo, Casting Director: Piotr Chamier
A passionate soul who likes to search and be carried away by chance. Much of this collection from De Vincenzo is embodied through his love of music, setting the scene for an evocative collection. (some pieces would have sat well in Talitha Getty’s wardrobe). Here, the creative director embarks on a transformative journey to captivate a fresh audience while paying homage to Etro’s rich heritage. As he delves deep into the brand’s intricate ethos, he is inspired by the allure of imagined landscapes—a place that doesn’t exist yet feels profoundly real. This “Nowhere,” a dreamlike realm where ancient temples rise amidst urban jungles, serves as a testament to the limitless possibilities of fashion. It’s a symbolic space where rules are upended, rational thought dissolves, and unexpected combinations come to life.
The Impression
ALBERTA FERRETTI SS24
Models: Victoria Fawole, Marina Moioli, Raynara Negrine. Alberta Ferretti - Designer, Poppy Kain - Fashion Editor/Stylist, Kanako Takase - Makeup Artist, Ben Grimes - Casting Director
Since before the pandemic, Ferretti has been focused on expanding her range, because women can’t live in chiffon alone. The lightness that’s a hallmark of her evening styles hasn’t always translated to her daywear, but the chemisier dress spilling off one shoulder that opened the show and the long white dresses with hand-tucked pleats that followed it had the ease of resort clothes. She kept the vibe going with striped cotton pajama separates and a shirtdress cut as generous as a caftan. You could see women wearing these pieces on holiday.
Vogue.com
MAX MARA SS24
Models: Angelina Kendall, Victoria Fawole, HeJia Li. Ian Griffiths - Creative Director, Tonne Goodman - Fashion Editor/Stylist, Giulia Massullo - Casting Director, Piergiorgio Del Moro - Casting Director
The Women’s Land Army proved a fertile source of inspiration for Ian Griffiths at Max Mara. The collection that flourished from it was cultivated rather than rustic—more Phoebe Waller-Bridge channeling Monty Don shot by Sam Mendes at Sissinghurst and less tilling for beetroot—but it contained many authentically researched touches while also working wonderfully as a luxuriously utilitarian woman’s wardrobe for now.
Vogue.com
TOM FORD SS24
Models: Angelina Kendall, Nyaduola Gabriel, Victoria Fawole, Hejia Li. Peter Hawkings - Creative Director, Marie Chaix - Fashion Editor/Stylist, Alejandra Perez - Casting Director, Giulia Massullo - Casting Director, Piergiorgio Del Moro - Casting Director
A voice from the past echoed across the runway. Hawkings, whose journey with Tom Ford extends back to their collaborative days at Gucci, presented a collection that felt like a tribute—a love letter—to those shared iconic moments. In one perspective, it was like watching Tom Ford 2.0; fast, sexy, tailored, every garment exuding that intoxicating confidence that has long defined the brand. Yet, this is where the introspection arises: does this reclamation of classics border on the verge of glorifying an antiquated idea of femininity?
Inspired by the poise and enigma of Donyale Luna—the ’70s first black supermodel—the collection oozed a feline, mysterious charm. Every piece felt supremely elegant and glamorous, much like Luna herself. Hawkings’ vision of a unified aesthetic between men’s and women’s collections shone brightly, a bold but welcome move in today’s fashion landscape.
