Casting Directors: Arthur Méjean, Piergiorgio Del Moro, Samuel Ellis Scheinman
The ailing MTA could use a guy like Jeremy Scott. His Moschino show at the Transit Museum tonight was the best time anybody’s had on the New York subway in, well, just about ever. Negotiating the space was apparently a year in the process, but Scott knew it was the place to put on his Moschino pre-fall show. “The subway’s the quintessential New York backdrop,” he said backstage, “plus, it’s a mix of what I do: high/low, uptown/downtown.” New York’s streets often get compared to a runway.
Scott specializes in a sort of high-def hyper-realism. It was in full effect this evening as he worked his way through a subway car’s worth of New York subcultures to a soundtrack that included the familiar warning, “stand clear of the closing doors,” and an appearance by Showtime dancers. The Moschino frontman worked on the macro level: puffer jackets were super super-sized, as were baseball caps, the house logo, and a gargantuan red backpack that seems destined to out-meme last week’s giant yellow Opening Ceremony tote (see @newyorknico if you missed it). But, really, no urban uniform was safe from Scott’s tweaking. Humble enough color-blocked track suits were converted into cocktail dresses and gowns, and otherwise staid trenches and leather jackets were finished with giant Moschino Couture labels. The portable music player of choice circa now is an iPhone 11—arguably they’re tools for shutting other people out—but boomboxes are much more visually interesting and they’re communal, too, so he put them on outerwear and hoodies.