Over the last year or so, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have been charting a new course. With the help of private investment, they’ve taken the reins of their brand financially, most recently wiping the slate clean for Proenza Schouler White Label, their advanced contemporary project which hits stores this month. Their latest pre-fall offering is a clear sign that they’re hitting their stride creatively once again too.
The collection effectively picks up where their last runway show in September left off, on a series of fluid, matte jersey evening looks. The designers have been moving away from their sketchbooks toward a more hands-on approach to making clothes. The draping, knotting, and tying techniques they’ve been experimenting with lent an ’80s-inflected attitude to day dresses in autumnal colors that were cinched with asymmetric leather belts and furnished with chic gold buttons. One painterly print dress with gently sculpted shoulders in particular was an alluring reinterpretation of a recognizable Proenza signature; ditto for the artisanal tie-dyed velvet maxiskirts and frocks.